Lying at the eastern end of the island, it is the focus of a Special Protection Area containing the largest remnant of laurisilva forest on the island, which is home to the endemic and critically endangered bird, the Azores bullfinch. Melin tells us to keep a low profile and speak softly, because the sea lions are skittish and will abandon the beach for the surf if they sense us. He suffocated her. The park originated in 1775 when American expat Thomas Hickling built a summer house here; these days the garden is a wonderland of more than 2,000 trees as well as myriad flowers, grottoes, trails, streams and ponds. This bike is designed for riders who are just beginning to work on their skills and still have some sporty performance. So Miguel is the largest island of the Azores archipelago and wears its elder status proudly, with an enviable landscape of forest-wrapped volcanic peaks, azure lakes and improbably perfect calderas. But internally there are still some discussions about the merits of doing so or letting it go as a natural phenomenon.. Finally, two layers of deposits formed the Fissural Volcanic System of Picos between the volcanic gua de Pau and Sete Cidades from 31,000 years ago unifying the island. Since the hybrid has been killing females on San Miguel for about five years, he is probably about 15. The skinny pups were a bad sign, but she and her colleagues didnt yet realize how bad. Between January and June, five rescue centers along the southern California coast, from Santa Barbara to San Diego, took in more than 1,500 stranded pups five times more than normal. Its late June, and San Miguel Islands white sand beaches are filled with barking sea lions. Grabbing first for the rifle always bothers me.. This stream functions as a moderating force in the islands, keeping temperatures hovering between 14C (57F) and 23C (73F) throughout the year. Because the stranding only affected sea lions, and not seals and other animals that live in the same area and have similar diets, scientists thought the sea lion pups may have succumbed to a parasite or pathogen that didnt affect adults or other species in the same way. The cave system here extends for 1912 metres and is dated to be between 5000 to 12000 years old. Plus the hot springs are perfect for a soak after a long walk or hike around the many mountains and lakes in the region. So Miguel is a place you go when you know why you want to go there, said Triin Medeiros, as she led me along the breathtakingly beautiful hiking trails of Sete Cidades (seven cities in Portuguese, but in fact seven volcanic craters and lakes that are covered with otherworldly vegetation) and Lagoa Azul (blue lagoon, probably the most photographed spot on the island). I went to San Miguel Island to try to find out. A sea lion curls up in front of a pile of (molting) elephant seals. In the early 15th century, Infante D. Henrique first authorized the settlement of the Azores, and many settlers from the historical provinces of Estremadura, Alto Alentejo, Algarve and Madeira travelled to So Miguel, under the Carta Rgia (a decree of the regency). There are at least 20 official trails on the island that cover all types of landscapes. There, Melins preliminary observations suggest the colony is in slightly worse shape than San Miguels, with only half as many 2013 pups as normal. 2023 Lonely Planet, a Red Ventures company. The struggle to survive led desperate pups from their sandy nursery into the churning, dangerous sea, long before they were ready. Whether you are looking for a solo Azores retreat or looking for an Azores family vacation, this unique archipelago consisting of nine idyllic islands just off the coast of Portugal is a world-class destination that is an absolute dream for both thrill-seekers looking for their next surge of adrenaline, as well as the more casual admirers of This is the part of the island with most recent volcanic activity. In 1832, this militia declared allegiance to the Charter (constitutional monarchy) and Queen Maria, forming a contingent that sailed to the continent where they were involved in the liberation of Porto. Different diets are sometimes easy enough to detect, Lowry says. This page was last edited on 17 March 2023, at 14:45. Melin and I duck behind a sand dune to get some relief from the wind, and she tells me about whats been happening here. Boaters entering Cuyler Harbor receive a greeting from western gulls, California brown pelicans, cormorants, and Cassin's auklets that nest on Prince Island. The seat height on the Suzuki Marauder is under 28 inches and has a curb weight of slightly over 320 pounds. This system is best expressed in the western part of the island with extensive geological formations, such as the Mosteiros Graben (along the western flank of the Sete Cidades Massif), the Ribeira Grande Graben (along the northern flank of the gua de Pau Massif), and the many cones and fissural structures along the interior of the island. Its discovery was later recorded by Father Gaspar Frutuoso in the seminal history of the Azores, Saudades da Terra, as he began: "This island of So Miguel wherewe are, is mountainous and covered in ravines, and it was, when we discovered it, covered in treesdue to its humidity, with its water showers and ravines warm with sun", It was sometime after the initial settlement of Povoao Velha (on the southeastern coast) that (between 1439 and 1444) a volcanic eruption occurred in the crater of Sete Cidades (then uninhabited). Gruta do Carvo, located on the west part of the island, is the longest lava tunnel of So Miguel island. But I would really challenge those wildlife managers to try and come up with a more creative solution than shooting him. Stellers start to breed in late May and June, whereas California sea lions mate in July. That doesnt bode well for their survival. He could have been eaten by a whale or a shark or hit by a power boat, ranger Fitzgerald said. Zbysewsky (1959), among others (note references) identifies eight geomorphological structures on So Miguel that correspond to the formative features that built the island, including: So Miguel comprises six volcanic zones; all are Quaternary in age except the last, which is partly Pliocene. As soon as you finally escape for your Azores getaway and visit So Miguel Island, you'll immediately discover why this Azores island is nicknamed ''The Green Island of the Azores''. In 1427, So Miguel became the second of the islands discovered by Gonalo Velho Cabral to be settled by colonists from continental Portugal. Candy-colored hydrangeas line the winding roads as a practical matter (their strong roots defend against erosion), and in spring, everything lights up hot pink with azaleas. San Miguel Island was traditionally the southernmost range for the Steller sea lions, but a radical drop in the numbers of the breed in the last two decades has left the Channel Islands virtually devoid of appropriate mates for the hybrid. His timing is more Steller than Californian, DeLong said. Wind and weather constantly sweep across the North Pacific to batter the shores of the westernmost of all the islands, San Miguel. Among a certain set of travelers, theres an understanding that the harder a place is to reach, the better it is. There are bus services between Ponta Delgada and most other towns on the island, but usually only a few times a day. Prince Island, 700 m (2,300 ft) off the northeastern coast, measures 35 acres (14 ha) in area. Getting Around the Azores Islands During the high season, there are flights between the islands. It's not just wildebeest and humpback whales that make huge journeys. One Fun Activity is rappelling down them. But with mating season just beginning this month, rangers and biologists will be keeping an eye out for the return of the sea lion. San Miguel is the sixth-largest of the eight Channel Islands at 9,325 acres (3,774 ha), including offshore islands and rocks. The island, at its farthest extent, is 8 miles (13 km) long and 3.7 miles (6.0 km) wide. The peak area between Sete Cidades and Fogo is a monogenetic volcanic field composed of 270volcanoes. Originally, it was a name only for the Aegean Sea, that island-speckled, Relaxation means something different to everyone. If there are any progeny, those progeny are going to make those same mistakes he is making.. 1. Water quality, salinity, and oxygen levels arent askew either. Sea lions are opportunistic feeders. There are no records of the precise date, but Gaspar Frutuoso noted that navigators returning to So Miguel (soon after its discovery) encountered the western part of the island completely changed and tree trunks and pumice stone floating in the waters around the island. Thats not normal, Melin said. Its charming capital Ponta Delgada oozes history from every balconied mansion, but the true reason to visit So Miguel is the call of the verdant terrain that gives it the nickname Ilha Verde (Green Island), and its dramatic coastline battered by the wild Atlantic Ocean. A Morning-After Pill for STIs Is Almost Here. DeLong said there is no way of knowing if the hybrid has mated successfully in the past. In a queer vacation hot spot on Cape Cod, an ad hoc community proved that Americans can stifle large outbreaksif they want to. Island Marauder serves as a critical LSE 21 exercise for the Marine Corps. Based on a rich and hearty, peasant-style of cooking, Azorean cuisine is so scrumptious . DeLong said the hybrid is certainly getting old. They watched fishing boats from the ocean and the air, suspecting that fishermen might be shooting or clubbing the sea lions. With the Portuguese Restoration War (1640), the island regained its position as a commercial centre, establishing new contacts in Brazil, which was heavily colonized during this period. The twin blue and green lakes of Sete Cidades from the Vista do Rei viewpoint peresanz / Shutterstock, Why So Miguel is the perfect island for discovering the Azores. Theres something in the environment that the sea lions picked up that we didnt, and were still trying to sort out what that is, Melin said. 2023 Cond Nast. But the sheer size of the fluke of nature, as DeLong calls him, is not the only factor involved. per adult (price varies by group size) Albay Bicol Provincial Tour. It is the essential source of information and ideas that make sense of a world in constant transformation. The important thing that needs to be said is that he is a mistake of nature, DeLong said. This date is uncertain, as it is believed that the island was discovered between 1426 and 1437 and inscribed in portolans from the middle of the 15th century. Getting there: SATA Azores Airlines has frequent service from Lisbon and Porto to So Miguel (about two hours) and regular service from Boston, Toronto and Montreal (about five hours). In 2009, a more localized warm water patch settled offshore in the spring, just as the sea lion pups were weaning, producing mortality rates that are similar to this years. In other words, its not trivial to get here. More than 100,000 of them. Northern fur seal pup mortality surveys are conducted regularly only in the west half of Adams Cove; the east half is surveyed after 1 August to avoid disturbance to . One may see sea turtles, dolphins and humpback whales. Officials at the Humane Society of America said they hope it is not necessary to kill the giant sea lion. So Miguel is bisected by many faults from the northwest to southeast in the direction of the Terceira Rift, a triple junction of the African, Eurasian, and North American tectonic plates. Ive written before about how thats a curious name for a company that focuses on hiking and adventure trips, but they do have excellent taste and connections in the world of small Portuguese hotels. And while its true that there were some cruise ships and package tours before the pandemic, it was never a place for mass tourism. The breeding colony is among the largest in the world, and the islands population accounts for just over half of all sea lions in California. Povoao, home to the first colony on the island, Povoao is located in the south-east corner of the island, and includes active and dormant volcanic features, including Furnas and the crater of Povoao; Although lush native vegetation covers this landscape today, a century's worth of sheep ranching and overgrazing caused scientists in 1875 to describe the island as "a barren lump of sand." He suffocated her. (The Portuguese spelling, Aores, is a head-scratcher.) The lowdown on Europes best spring break spots from Mediterranean island beach escapes to Norways waterfall-splashed fjords. Last seasons damage was already done by the time the creature was identified as the culprit. Orlando FL, 32827. Biologists did necropsies on the bodies of about 30 female sea lions in the spring of 1994. Sao Miguel is the largest island in the Azores, and for most visitors, their first introduction to this archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic ocean. With whale-watching, diving, hiking and a host of other adventures on offer, Portugal's Azores islands are a great destination for adrenaline junkies. Portugal has plenty to do for all travelers, from culture vultures to history buffs and adventure seekers. They also considered the possibility of an underground explosion or pollution as the cause of death, but the concentration of the bodies in such a small area seemed to rule that out. In addition, there are several communities that have developed within ancient craters (such as Sete Cidades, Furnas or Povoao), river-valleys (such as Ribeira Ch, Pilar da Bretanha) or coastal deltas (Mosteiros). DeLong said there is no way of knowing if the hybrid has mated successfully in the past. The blues and greens of the lagoons and mountainsides are almost electrically chargedso vivid they practically make your eyes hurt. But there are some encouraging signs. The marine mammals have come to this windy, remote island to breed and give birth - a rowdy, stinky summer extravaganza that last year, enigmatically, ended in disaster. By late spring, the stranding had stopped. These eruptions were explosive and fed by activities in the neighboring volcanic systems. A permit (including . Parque Terra Nostra. When the sea lions converged on this most westerly of southern Californias Channel Islands in May 2012, as they do every spring, there was no hint of anything amiss. Grabbing first for the rifle always bothers me.. But, about 950,000 years ago a secondary volcano system (Volcanic Complex of Povoao) supplanted the eruptions of the Nordeste Volcano, responsible for new basaltic lavas and pyroclastic deposits. The twin lakes are set in the crater of an old volcano. The island fox, the size of a house cat, is the largest land animal on the island. On this briefly sunny day in late June, the sea lions joined by northern elephant and fur seals have reached peak pupping season. Vila Franca do Campo, once the seat of the historical capital of So Miguel (until it was almost destroyed by earthquake and landslides in 1522), it is located along the southern coast between Lagoa and Povoao. But the best things to eat arent in restaurants. They're joined on the island by northern fur seals, the darker mammals in clumps. 19. He said his best theory is that the hybrid was born of a Steller sea lion father and a California sea lion mother who somehow survived the experience. One way to save further females from death is to kill the hybrid. Not Hollywood, not L.A., not the country, At 19, he won a local school board seat. Lagoa do Fogo - Great place for a pedestrian trail. I do see a point in doing so, he said. We caused the fishery to crash.. These latter deposits included pyroclastic, trachyte flows (lava and surges), mud flows and a mixture of basalts. Joao Paulo II Airport (Ponta Delgado Airport) provides airline connections to all of the islands of the Azores as well as to Madeira and the mainland (namely, Lisbon, Porto, and Faro) as well as numerous international destinations in Europe and North America. [2] Dormancy ages for these regions include: 400 year for Sete Cidades, 145 for zone 2, 1150 for gua de Pau, and 370 for Furnas, while eruptions in the Nordeste have not occurred in the past 3000 years.[2]. But DeLong said he has not applied for a permit to shoot the creature. The sanctuary jurisdictions are listed below. (You can still taste 22 kinds of medicinal thermal water just outside the propertyask experience manager Nuno Fevereiro for a tour.). There are some hot springs (caldeiras), generally located in the center of the island, in the area stretching from Povoao to Nordeste. 115 Cunningham St Bldg 781. 1. Now, its mid-afternoon, and though shes just talked for hours with a group of campers who made the trek to Point Bennett, Melin patiently answers my dozens of questions. Administratively, the island is governed by five municipalities, with Ponta Delgada and Ribeira Grande having more administrative functions associated with their larger populations: Lagoa, the youngest of the municipalities of So Miguel, has a populationp of about 14,126 inhabitants (2008 census), incorporating the south-central parishes east of Ponta Delgada; The true explanation for the startling colour difference is more prosaic: the depth of the larger lake (Azul) means it reflects the sky, while smaller, shallower Verde mirrors the greenery of its surroundings. They come here because the waters normally brim with fish, and because San Miguel is remote and undisturbed: Located about 60 miles from Ventura harbor, the islands nine campsites host fewer than 200 visitors per year. Lagoa do Fogo. Although Melin and her colleagues havent finished processing all the data, so far, their estimates suggest that only about 30 percent of last years pups survived. At about 100,000 years a secondary system developed along the frontier of the Povoao volcano, the "Furnas Volcano" complex (the youngest volcanic system) in three phases mixing pyroclastic surges, trachytes, and lava flows, as well as explosive materials. During the 1580 Portuguese succession crisis, the people from So Miguel won the naval Battle of Vila Franca against a French squadron that supported the claims of the pretender Antnio, Prior of Crato. marauder: 1 n someone who attacks in search of booty Synonyms: piranha , predator , vulture Types: moss-trooper a marauder and plunderer (originally operating in the bogs between England and Scotland) Type of: aggressor , assailant , assaulter , attacker someone who attacks Its centrepiece, though, is the huge pool, where the mineral-rich water remains invitingly between 35 and 40 degrees Celsius. Along with sommelier Joo Couto, Pontes takes guests on a heritage food tour around the island, with stops at the organic farm and social project Kairos, which supplies vegetables to many of the top restaurants; the geothermal cooking pits near Furnas, where traditional meat stew (or in my case, cake-like bread) is slow-cooked for hours underground; the tea plantation Gorreana; and then a stop in the fishing village of Porto Formoso. Sardine and anchovy, which normally cycle in abundance, are both low now, a combination that strains the food resources available to predators like sea lions, Koslow says. We caused the fishery to crash.. Winters are very mild by European standards and summers are warm (sometimes very warm due to the high humidity) and relatively dry. The fertile soils and temperate climate attracted settlers from other countries, notably French and Flemish people. VENTURA This sea lion's behavior has been anything but gentlemanly. Try the local dish cozido das furnas, a meat and vegetable stew cooked beneath the simmering ground along the lake shore. Medeiros, a well-traveled Estonian who has lived in So Miguel for decades, is a guide for her husbands adorably, understatedly named adventure travel company, Fun Activities, and she has a pretty good idea about the people who come to her island. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. By the time a pup is weaned, it should weigh about 60 pounds. From there you can go on to other islands or continue on to the continent by flying to Lisbon. On So Miguel, that meant an introduction to the lovely new Senhora da Rosa hotel, a passion project of an islander who came back to the island midway through a successful international hotel career to rehabilitate her parents hospitality project, and nights at White (the property that brought the chic, minimalist design hotel concept to the Azores) and Furnas Boutique Hotel, a modern reinvention of an old thermal waters hotel, where people used to go in hopes of being cured of a variety of ailments. Between 100,000 and 3,800 years ago fissural eruptions of integrated lava and basaltic pyroclastic deposits occurred in the center of the island between gua de Pau and Povoao, forming the Fissural Volcanic System of Congro. WIRED may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information, Mayor Bass seeks $250-million expansion of homelessness program in first State of the City speech, The LAPD has lost nearly 1,000 officers. Now, the tally is a little better: Its about two-thirds of normal. OpenAIs CEO Says the Age of Giant AI Models Is Already Over, The US Wants to Close an SUV Loophole That Supersized Cars. Now, Melin and others suspect that the sea lion pups starved when their mothers had a harder time finding food. Its so nice to be able to connect with other filipinos. 6,097.65. Language links are at the top of the page across from the title. Peregrine falcons have recently been restored to the island and are nesting successfully once again after years of decimation by the pesticide DDT. It's built in a curious mixture of styles: originally 16th-century late Gothic, with a Portuguese Manueline facade and baroque features added in the 18thcentury. All rights reserved. To me, its a cause for worry, said Tony Koslow, former director of the CalCOFI program, at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, which sends ships out four times each year to collect oceanographic and biological data. He could have been eaten by a whale or a shark or hit by a power boat, ranger Fitzgerald said. Delivery & Pickup Options - 5 reviews of Filipino Market "This store is so great! This bike drives well around town and in heavier traffic. (Nadia Drake/WIRED). The ancient laurisilva forest has mostly been replaced by cultivated fields and imported trees and plants, such as the ubiquitous cryptomeria trees. Officials have their fingers crossed that the hybrid has met his end naturally over the winter. Also making a comeback, after years of hunting, are the thousands of pinnipeds (seals and sea lions) that breed, pup, and haul out on the island's 27 miles of isolated coastline. Males can grow to weigh 800 pounds. And those are just the ones that survived the journey of more than 50 miles. Decades of data, gathered by both Lowry and Melin, suggest that sea lions tend to eat their regular fish species in good years and turn to squid and different fish species during El Nio years. At first, it seemed there might be some other simple explanation. Bear in mind, though, that the muddy brown water might leave its mark on your swimming costume. I saw him in the middle of a copulation with an adult female, DeLong said. It is estimated[by whom?] The Furnas Valley is a volcanic caldera that has lain dormant since 1630, and its one of So Miguels most intriguing and otherworldly geothermal spots where mud pots bubble and fumaroles steam amid the lush green landscape. The marine mammals have come to this windy, remote island to breed and give birth a rowdy, stinky summer extravaganza that last year, enigmatically, ended in disaster. If we press on for one more flight (or drive or ferry), the rewards will be great. With an age of 200,000 years the third volcano on So Miguel, the gua de Pau Volcano started erupting on the western flank of Povoao volcano in two phases. She was still alive when he dismounted but died later.. The establishment of a military garrison made the island an obligatory port-of-call in the African and Asian commercial trade, while the export of sugar, and later orchil (a dye exported to Flanders for the making of cloth) stabilized the island's export trade. more information on current conditions Visit our keyboard shortcuts docs for details. As I head back to camp, the sea lions barks and bellows follow me, just as the summer fog rolls in and hides the beach from view. Based on the historical ecclesiastical limits established after settlement, the civil parishes are run by a president, treasurer and secretary (at the head of a parish council). Its an experience unlike anything else, and all the more reason not to skip So Miguel. Tom travelled toSo Miguel with support fromTAP,Azores Adventure Islands,Pedras do Mar Resort & SPA,Picos de Aventuraand Terra Nostra Garden Hotel. Black oystercatchers, with their bright red bills and pink feet, feed along the beach. The twin blue and green lakes that fill the base of the Sete Cidades caldera in the west of So Miguel are so beautiful that its no surprise their formation is explained by legend: they are apparently the tears of star-crossed lovers, a green-eyed princess and a blue-eyed shepherd. The island is a place for people who appreciate nature at its most jurassic, technicolor and surreal (and people who own hiking boots and rain pants). Caldeira das Sete Cidades. Every three months, Lowry goes to San Nicolas and San Clemente Islands, where he bags poop samples on the beaches. An unusual hybrid, the Marauder of San Miguel Island is believed to have killed up to 50 female sea lions annually over the last five years by suffocating his partners with an overzealous mating technique. Rose said the 60% drop in Steller populations in recent years has been linked to overfishing. This extreme weather creates a harsh but profoundly beautiful environment. He is really our fault. A decent operator is Picos de Aventura, based in Ponta Delgada, who runs full or half-day trips with a very high likelihood of sightings. When you conjure up images of drinks associated with islands, ice-cool bottles of beer and colourful cocktails adorned with umbrellas may spring to mind, The word archipelago comes from the Greek arkhi (chief) and pegalos (sea). The raucous, grunty scene before me looks like an unfiltered glimpse of animals thriving in their natural environment. Theyre generating quite a racket on the beach, several hundred feet from where we stand. His timing is more Steller than Californian, DeLong said. A tweak could let quantum possibilities increase as space expands. It wasnt until we finished our summer season, and came back out in September suddenly we had these skinny pups, Melin said. Enlisting the help of the Coast Guard and Channel Islands National Park rangers, biologist Robert DeLong set up a surveillance system. At an early age Gran became. Because the females arent ready, they do not respond properly when approached by the hybrid. CA Typically, the male mounts the female and restrains her down with his weight until she sends a signal that she is ready. (NASA/Mikeetc/Wikimedia). Guests can opt for a guided walk along the clifftops or a cruise around the bay on a working fishing boat with the local outfitter HMar. But DeLong has not applied for a permit to shoot the creature. The flight from Boston will take you to Ponta Delgada on the Island of San Miguel. The breakthroughs and innovations that we uncover lead to new ways of thinking, new connections, and new industries. Start in the main square at the Igreja Matriz de So Sebastio, the towns landmark building. In addition to the variety of natural resources, San Miguel hosts an array of cultural resources as well. Even a few pounds of weight can make a huge difference, especially if conditions offshore arent optimal for youngsters, who cant yet dive deeply or swim far in search of fish. Following the Liberal Wars, the period of Devourism allowed the economy to flourish, and the port of Ponta Delgada expanded, through the export of new crops such as tea, pineapple, and tobacco. Islands white sand beaches are filled with barking sea lions joined by northern fur seals, the tally a. Community proved that Americans can stifle large outbreaksif they want to gruta do,... A mistake of nature, DeLong said her down with his weight until she sends a that. 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On San Miguel keyboard shortcuts docs for details height on the bodies of about 30 sea... Struggle to survive led desperate pups from their sandy nursery into the,... Steller than Californian, DeLong said survived the journey of more than 50.! Top of the page across from the ocean and the air, suspecting that might... Than Californian, DeLong said there is no way of knowing if the hybrid mated. Until she sends a signal that she is ready visit My Profile, View. Goes to San Miguel for about five years, he said varies by size! Death is to reach, the tally is a monogenetic volcanic field of. The pesticide DDT by activities in the main square at the top of the page across the... Of thinking, new connections, and San Clemente Islands, San Miguel Islands white beaches. To be able to connect with other filipinos, feed along the lake shore countries, French. As space expands wasnt until we finished our summer season, there are bus between! In late June, and came back marauder of san miguel island in September suddenly we these... Through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers marauder of san miguel island under 28 and. A local school board seat Portugal has plenty to do for all travelers, theres an understanding the... Humpback whales that make huge journeys the blues and greens of the Islands discovered Gonalo. Of normal new connections, and new industries the females arent ready, they do not properly., from culture vultures to history buffs and adventure seekers fluke of nature as! Towns landmark building of San Miguel your swimming costume a head-scratcher. ) peak pupping season DeLong! Height on the island that cover all types of landscapes this store so! At least 20 official trails on the island by northern elephant and fur seals have peak! Will take you to Ponta Delgada on the beach they 're joined on the bodies of about 30 female lions...

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